RC Heli Forums - Blade CP Owners Unite

axis

01-23-2006, 03:20 PM

Anybody else around here fly the Blade CP?
I have had one for about a month now. I went to all seperates this past weekend and I must say my BCP is soooo much easier to fly.
I went with the following components:
Spektrum DX6
GWS ICS-50 (Tail Motor ESC)
GWS ICS-100 (Main Motor ESC)
GWS 03 Gyro
and used all the Spektrum servo's that came with the radio.
I haven't changed over to a LiPo and brushless yet but I plan to very soon..

Anyways, if ya got a BCP post up.. :D

hellian

01-23-2006, 04:19 PM

I've got a blade CP, mostly all stock. I went with a carbon arrow boom, since I snapped my original (thinking of either going back to a stocker, or lightening it a bit, since I think my bcp is now a bit tail heavy.) Right now I' need new blades, but I just got a sim, and been spending more time there. I'd be interested in watching some movies of a CP flying all separates if you got any.

axis

01-23-2006, 04:44 PM

Sure I'll try and get some for ya. I am just learning as well. I went all seperates because my 4n1 unit died. First the Rx portion and now the gyro portion so I bit the bullet and went for it. I think the Gyro made the biggest difference. it may not be the best gyro out there but it fells tons better then the 4n1 and the happy tail isnt so happy any more. :D

redout

02-03-2006, 08:55 PM

I picked up a Blade CP back in Dec. Never flown a heli in my life. After some changes its damn near rock solid in hover. Changed the blades , added a few more degrees in pitch, Lipo battery, 11T motor, and add one flybar collar per side. Damn thing flys so smooth now, I called it Parkay . Im still learning alot, and hope to see these forums fill up with nothing but good things. Ive been reading evrything I can get my hands on, and bought the G3 sim. Pricey, aye it is. But concidering how many blades, struts, and tail booms ive seen other people go through, it is worth every penny.

Stack

02-05-2006, 02:18 AM

3 BCPs here. 1 mostly stock, 1 with bell hiller head, and one that I am in the middle of a JMD Ranger body on :D

Mark Jester

02-06-2006, 10:54 PM

Stack

02-07-2006, 02:28 AM

The easiest way to setup the blade for proper pitch is as follows:

1. disconnect motors from 4 in 1
2. with power on, move the "stunt" switch (idle up) to the forward position
3. at mid stick adjust linkages to 0 degrees

You should be all set with 0 at mid stick in stunt mode. Everything will correlate over just fine when you switch back to normal mode.

Hope this helps!

FYI: If he is not getting off the ground after this I'd check the battery. Is his Blade stock?

redout

02-09-2006, 05:15 AM

Sir im at 6 degrees .. just got my pitch gauge today... ill drop it to 4 degrees tonight and runt a few batteries on it and see what it feels like.

Also the LHS just coughed up a bell mixer upgrade for me. Lord knows I spend enough $ in there.

So I will throw that on tonight also and try to give some feed back on that. It seems that it will make it more aggressive, which may not be the road I want to travel down right now.

Ive started to upgrade now, threw on an alumni swashplate, this thig just keeps getting better and better. But im sure ill throw the bell mixer on and turn it in to a lawn dart in 10 seconds or less :(

Live and learn I say, live and learn.

I have a question for you anyone running the G3 sim. How can i config the controller for "idle up" as on the CP TX ? Ive gone inverted on the sim but not on the "watt" heli. Any suggestions would be great. Thank you

redout

02-09-2006, 08:01 AM

Test Flight Part: EFLH1170 Bell Mixer Upgrade kit:BCP

Install: follow the directions on the back of the package, no extra parts required. check blade pitch and tracking after install is complete.

Test flight 1: No lift, pitch at 2 degrees, stock battery, symmetrical blades, 11T motor, added one fly bar weight per side for stablity, alloy swash plate.

~adjusted pitch to 4 degrees.

Test flight 2: Lift off though a bit higher on the throttle than what I am use to. Changed batteries to Lipo 1200 11.1V 3cell.

In flight response: Heli did, went, and stopped where I want it to. Slow repsonse is a thing of the past. Snap the stick to the side and your CP will start to roll all the way over. Center the sticks and your CP will sit and stay like a well trained dog.

After thoughts: The instructions say "Shorten the pitch links 1 1/4 to 2 1/4 turns depending on setup". IMO do dont change the pitch links until after the first test flight, then make adjustments. They provide 4 shims in the package, I used them. Figured they are in there for a reason. You will also see that the fixed length pushrods can be set up 2 different way. Pushrods runing the same way as you look at from the nose or opposing ways. I chose oppossing as I think this could turn in to a balancing issue. I dont know which way is correct, but I will try and find out.

Bottom Line: Its worth it guys. More control at your fingers. Just be easy on the sticks at first because it will be a bit more responsive or aggressive than before. But I think everyone will like this part.

redout

02-13-2006, 01:33 AM

Hey guys. My friend has a CP and has a problem thats I hope someone can solve.

His heli starts to bounce in mid air. Like a vibration or wave is going through the heli from main mast to the tail. He will land take off and its gone, for a minute or so then comes back.

Picture holding a pen in the middle with your thumb and index finger and you move it up and down, it looks like a wave going through the pen right? same thing here is going on. Any clues ? Granted with that said, he has electric tape holding glue holding his blades together, and has never changed his flybar. Picture a ghetto heli and you have my friend. "I will crash it again, so why change it" mentality.

Any help would be great.

Resounding effect, while in fly? is that possible

axis

02-13-2006, 02:01 PM

Well there could be a few reasons.
1.) Tell him to make sure his flybar paddles are even with the flybar control
2.) I had this problem once and found out that I had too little RPM and too much pitch. I lowered the pitch and it helped. I bought a new motor and the problem went away.
3.) I had this problem again and I noticed that it was caused by excessive slop in the linkage.
Check that stuff out and post back and let us know.

axis

02-13-2006, 02:05 PM

...........on another note, I got my Blade CP back that I sold to buy my TRex. I think I am going to leave it all stock for now and use it as a go between, between my G3 flight sim and my TRex. It has all seperates too as well as a Venom Fireball Motor so its pretty much rock solid. I'll buy a few sets of Sym blades for it and off we go into advanced forward flight.. WOO HOO!!!

iammerc

02-13-2006, 07:08 PM

redout when you say you added one collar per side on the flybar did you meen in addition to the existing ones...
and i guess if you picked up the bell mixer up grade did you like it more than stock?
just cuerious....

axis

02-13-2006, 08:04 PM

I haven't picked it up yet.. but I plan on it.. From what I have read today the BH upgrade makes the BCP very responsive.. So this is one upgrade I am looking forward to. I would like to mimic the feel of my blade, sans steadiness due to size, as much as possible.

redout

02-14-2006, 01:26 AM

Aye sir, I have a total of 6 collars on my fly bar, 3 on each side. But on that note im getting ready to remove 2 of the 6 collars. The therory is, as explained to me. The weights spin and cause gyroscopic (spelling) stablitiy.

And the bell mixer I love, and would recommend to anyone that has the hover down. Its more responsive in flight, so you have more control. Though be forwarned its very responseive, so be easy on the sticks the first time out after installing. But yes I really like it and wont go back to the stock swash plate.

Im starting to get in to fast forward flight more and higher elevations(winds at 50 feet AGL are alot different than ground winds). So at this point in time Im looking to make my CP more responsive. I will experiment with removing flybar weights and/or changing to a 9T motor. I dont want learn how to fly all over again. So trial and error it is.

Axis thank you for the advise. I have told him to replace (and equal out ) the flybar. As I think this is the problem, but im new to this game. Again thank you

axis

02-14-2006, 01:58 PM

Wow thats alot of collars.. haa haa the flybar doesnt bend from the weight?? lol just kiddin..
Your welcome on the advice. Sounds like you and I are at about the same stage in this learning process.. If there is anything else I can help with just holla.. :D

redout

02-14-2006, 10:36 PM

Yeah its some weight.. 2 by the paddles and 1 by the mast. But im taking 1 of paddle weights off today.. Just been really windy here so i cant fly outside.

Hey Axis you have T-rex correct? Im thinking about buying my next heli. Two keep coming back to the surface.. T-rex or the Raptor. I know nitro vs electric ? I want to buy only 1 heli this year or until X-mas. But am having a hard time picking one or the other.

Trex 450 V2SE or the Raptor .30 Pro(some Raptor along those lines).

Any advice would be great. Is transporting electric that much easier than nitro (all the tkae along items?)

Again thank you

axis

02-14-2006, 11:25 PM

There are pro's and cons to both. However I prefer electric right now simply because I can fly it almost anywhere, its clean in my back seat and I dont have to buy fuel and glow plugs and stuff..
It really depends on what makes your clock tick, how much you got to spend and whether or not parts are available in your area. I for one hate to mail order so I always look for local parts availability when I get a new something or other.

Below is a post I made on a similar subject that may shed a little more light on things for ya..

Along the same lines as what midi said, be sure that whatever you decide, you can get parts for it. Its always nice to have an LHS clase by that has good parts support. I went electric for my first heli because of a few reasons.
1.) Its quiet and my neighbors dont complain.
2.) I have access to gymnasiums and warehouses to fly in if the weather is bad, cant do that with nitro.
3.) Nitro engine tuning can be tough for a beginner, unlike electric which is almost always, plug and go.
4.)Initial cost may be the same but replacement parts are a ton cheaper. Especially for the T-Rex and the Blade CP.
5.) No nitro mess all the time, no fuel and glow plugs to buy either.

They all need training gear as well...

Nitro
Heli
Starter
Engine
Charger
Fuel
Glow Plugs
Radio
Gyro
Rx Batteries
Misc supplies

Electric (Blade Cp)
Blade CP Kit
Radio Batteries

Electric T-Rex
Heli (can be had with motor and esc for as little $240)
Motor
ESC
Radio
Gyro
Lipo
Charger

These are just a few of MY reasons. Not arguing over which is better. In my 20+ years in the hobby industry I have seen both sides of the field nitro/electric and have raced both (cars). I always find myself going back to electric for the ease of maintenance, cleanliness and the low maintenance costs.

Just some things to think about. Whatever you decide to do just be sure you can get local support and parts. Those 2 factors alone will make your experience much more fun and enjoyable in the long run.

redout

02-16-2006, 05:23 PM

Cool thank you Axis, after that post I think Im going with the T-rex. Can it handle more wind than the CP?

Man I just dug a hole in the ground with my CP, wierd wasnt even a hard landing infact it was a good landing but the tail boom snaped came around and the main rotor ate the tail rotor, kind of bummed. Guess ill be rebuilding tonight. I think it might have been a stress fracture from previous dirting darting. Damn I was on a good "no crash" streak for 3 weeks. Damn damn damn... Oh well. Like Steve Austin "bigger, faster, stronger" LOL.

axis

02-16-2006, 05:54 PM

Yes it handles the wind soooooooooo much better than the BladeCP.
Well thats one good thing about the BladeCP is that they are cheap to fix.
I suggest keeping your Blade once you get your TRex. I sold mine, bought my Trex and then promptly bought it back. I am going to do some experimenting with my BCP before I try it on the TRex.. Anyways, you'll love the rex..
I went with the CCPM version (yellow one) because thats what I was familiar with.

redout

02-19-2006, 03:09 AM

Torched a servo on that crash ><

bah

axis

02-19-2006, 06:55 AM

good thing they're cheap. :)

Mark Jester

02-20-2006, 07:10 AM

I am working on my bosses CP. He crashed and repaired it a couple of times and rebuilt it. After that, it would not even lift off! In looking at it I found that the frame was broken. I replaced the frame. After he rebuilt it, it would not catch any air. He put a new motor on it with maybe an 8T pinion. At full throttle it will not even hover. Batteries have good volts and this thing does (or does not) the same thing regardless of which batteries are installed.

I set the swash perfectly level, made sure the paddles were set right and the bottom of the blades is parallel with the paddles. These blades are the stock blades and they are set close to 0 now. I cannot get this thing to even lift off! At full throttle it is just not catching any air. Do you have a particular blade angle that I can try and set these blades to? I read somewhere +10. I believe we have tried to change the pitch angle once before with no luck. Do you check this given angle with the motors disconnected and the tx set to idle up? Do you sent the angle when the throttle is set to mid throw with no trim? http://www.bladecprepair.com/

He actually gave up and bought another one that flies really well. I have tried to duplicate this one to the one that flies without too much luck. Thank you for any help you can offer.

axis

02-20-2006, 12:26 PM

Sounds to me like it still doesn't have enough lift being generated. Try adding more pitch via the pitch control links OR make sure the control links are in the right holes in the servo horns.

zooland1

02-23-2006, 02:35 AM

Sounds to me like you're not getting enough head speed. Are you using 3s lipos with the 8t pinion. You'll never get enough head speed with the 8t and stock or even 2s batteries. Stock batteries need 10t minimum and depending on the C rating of the battery used, you may need to go to 9t even with the 3s's. Horizon recommends 11t with 2s lipos, but I tried it and had to go back to 10t because the head speed was actually too high. I've only flown with 2s since the start. Just went to 3s this week, but haven't had time to fly. I am going to 8t before I try it.

Mark Jester

02-23-2006, 06:05 AM

I actually set the blades to +8 and switched out the blade grip hardware. It is catching some lift now. He is still using the NM stock batteries but he changed to a (I think) 8t. The 370 is stock except for the 10 to 8t change.

Sigh, I will play with this some more and see what happens. I am not so sure the 8t is good with the NM batteries. On his new blade he went to lipo and a 9t. It seems to do pretty well. I guess you will call that the enhancement kit.

Thank you for your kind and generous response.

PS: I am still learning this as I am, or was, a closet Draganflyer V5 Ti pilot. My current project is a shogun V2 and of course this rebuild project. Muchas Gracias!

rc guy

02-23-2006, 07:15 PM

axis

02-23-2006, 08:03 PM

I love it. :D
I couldn't ask for a better radio for my skill level. I am not the most advanced pilot out there. I've only been flying about 2 months now and feel like I got a pretty good handle on things. If nothing else I love the fact that I have ZERO glitching and the Rx is super lightweight.
Now the servo's that come with it are a whole other story.. I guss as far as they are concerned it really depends on what Heli you are putting them in. they were dreadful in my TRex but good on my CP..

WingsWest328

02-24-2006, 12:57 AM

I fly my CP with a 9C, carbons on tail and mains, AEK, TP 900 mAh lipo and choped up canopy. :D

zooland1

02-24-2006, 04:08 AM

I fly my CP with a 9C, carbons on tail and mains, AEK, TP 900 mAh lipo and choped up canopy. :D
Did you finally get the 9C working like you wanted or are you still playing with it. By the way I haven't seen any ads for a "choped" canopy. Is it homemade :D :D

Mark Jester

02-25-2006, 05:54 AM

People spend hours balancing their mains in order to get them vibration free. Glue, electrical tape, etc each add additional weight. If this weight is not even on both sides or the blades are out of track it will vibrate. It will show up more as RPM increases. In reading your post you mention glue, tape etc. That must mean that he has crashed it quite a bit or at least once, hard... Frames and associated frame parts can be CA'd with pretty good luck. Trying to repair blades is just asking for trouble. Repaired blades (unless the blades are like the Draganflyer V5Ti) will never have the strength or be able to withstand the great centrifugal forces that exist in a spinning mass. Ya, the blades are what, 20.00 a set for stock, wood blades? If repaired blades let go at the wrong time, the pilot could lose control and the thing would either hurt someone terribly or simply crash costing way more than 20.00 to repair.

Look for cracks in the frame, in particular, where the tail boom goes into the frame. I have seen two failures at this point already. I am going to install a little carbon fiber doubler at this location.

Little helos like this operate best when care is taken to make sure everything is tracked, the same weight, no damages, etc. It does not take much to turn these into paint can shakers. Just my two cents. Thanks

tdswan

02-25-2006, 04:28 PM

Bravo!

This is why so many people dabble into this hobby, then toss it aside once things get hard. The RTF kits don't teach them how to set a bird up. While this is great from the box, after one crash the problems start. Noone knows how to check their setups or to make sure that everything's balanced and tracked, so the heli flies worse and worse until they get frustrated and throw it away.

zooland1

02-26-2006, 07:48 PM

I've repaired my blades at least five times. I can't afford to fork out 20 bucks every time I get a ding. I agree that you have to use common sense. Make sure the ends are sealed especially so the weights can't come out. With each repair I make sure of balance and tracking. I do have spare blades on hand if a set gets to the point I don't feel they're safe. My bird flies great even with a little added weight, again use common sense. I also agree if you think you're going to fly without spending additional money on parts, you're in the wrong hobby. The 4-in-1 and a couple servos are about the only two parts I can think of I haven't replaced. But I also have quite a few mods.

Mark Jester

02-27-2006, 06:11 AM

Yes, I agree. A ding or two is OK. But when someone is talking about glue and electrical tape, well that's a different story to me. I keep bashed blades around just so when I try crazy stuff I can crash the bad blades without worry. A helo vibrating a little is OK. But when it is flipping around like a fish out of water, again, that's a different story. So, we are on the same page. TDSwan and I agree. This is the wrong hobby if money is tight. Jay Leno once said: "I have more money than common sense." I really don't have either. That's why I fly choppers!

MJ

axis

03-17-2006, 02:45 PM

Has anybody else installed their BH Upgrade yet?
I did mine last night and WOW what a difference. I am excited about flying my CP outside today and wringing it out. :D

jambiefsj

03-18-2006, 03:15 PM

Yes, I installed the bell upgrade on my CP the other night. Very cool! I noticed the increased response right away. To me, it made the heli a little easier to fly. I'm no expert yet, but practice makes perfect! :D

redout

03-18-2006, 11:45 PM

BH is great though I and my friend have noticed one major flaw. When you remove the fixed rods they will be lose the next time or 3rd time you put them on. I talked to LHS about it and they said to boil them for about 5 minutes before you put them on. The BH is awesome dont get me wrong but that little flaw drives me crazy. Again no problems until you remove them 2 or 3 times.

OK now I have a question. I put carbon mains and tail on my CP and i cant get the damn tail still, Its always hunting. Im running a 9T and 1320 TP on the CP.

Any hints and tips would be great.

I have no problem with the plastic tail and and normal symetric blades. But once I put the carbon stuff on there its a beast to control.

Thank you Red

axis

03-19-2006, 02:44 AM

Are you using the 4n1 still?
Have you tried readjusting the gain on the gyro?
The difference in weight and stiffness of the new blades may warrant a change in your gain percentage.

sgtmike74

03-19-2006, 04:08 AM

Today I had the chance to fly my BCP inside of a large convention room. It was great hovering with no wind. I went through an entire battery pack (stock) without landing. When the headspeed started to decrease I went ahead and set her down. I was curious to see how warm the motor was and was surprised that it was really hot. Too hot to the touch actually. So my question is....is this normal or should I look into getting some heat sinks for the stock motor.

redout

03-19-2006, 07:11 AM

yeah adjusted the gain both + and - damn near 1 turn in very small increments.. is the 4 in 1 able to handle the torque if carbon mains and tail? Infact its a brand new 4 in 1 had it for about 3 days now as i smoked my old one with a TeamLosi Insane motor.

axis

03-19-2006, 03:56 PM

redout:
What are you geared?
I'm glad you said that about the insane motor. I have one and was going to try it but I'm not now. I normally like to use the Venom Fireball. It has a little ooomph than the stock motor and its cheap too.

sgtmike:
I would strongly reccomend the heat sinks for the main and tail. Also I would cut a slot in the top of your canopy so that some air from the blades can get to them.

I also burned up a 4n1 unit this weekend. It is a funny story actually.
A light bulb went off in my head this weekend as I learned FFF, finally. I have been thru 7 batteries with only 1 crash. In my excitement I charged all my battereis because I couldn't get enough of this FFF discovery. I was giving the heli 5 minutes between packs to cool off and then here I went again. On my 4th battery in a row the heli just took off straight up spinning violently as it climbed. At about nose bleed level it stopped spinning I got it to the ground and all I broke was a blade and a landing gear. I smoked the 4n1 unit. The thing got soooo hot that one of the curcuits on the back actually came unsoldered!! and was floating around in the box. So I hacked my second 4n1, kept the Rx from it and ditched the rest. Added my seperates back in to the Heli and voila in the air again.
IMO the 4n1 is good for only e-flite accessories. Anything with more power just overloads it. I would also advise giving the heli PLENTY of time between flights to cool off, if your using the 4n1.

sgtmike74

03-19-2006, 04:29 PM

Thanks for the advice, I think I will try to get some more air to the motor and also give it more of a break in between flights.

kiwipilot

03-19-2006, 05:14 PM

Thought this Frappr link (http://www.frappr.com/bladecphoneybeecp2bladecx) might be useful for you too, as there may be someone close by that can help out.

Mark Jester

03-21-2006, 12:02 AM

As we all know, heat is an electricial component's worst enemy. Heat sinks are the way to go. They only suggest them with the "Enhancement Kit" and do not include them in the original BCP helo. A motor's performance decreases as it gets hot so anything you can do to reduce heat is helpful. Very worst case: It can't hurt! I think it costs just a couple of bucks for both the rear and main drive motor heat sinks. It is money well spent! One thing I have done in the past is use canned air to cool my motors faster. I cannot tell the difference between using the canned air to cool the motor and letting the motor cool naturally. I have also used conductive paste to further enhance the cooling ability of heat sinks. Anyway as Forrest Gump would say, "That's all I have to say about that..." Thanks for listening.

sgtmike74

04-03-2006, 09:29 PM

Have anybody here happen to upgrade their CP with aluminum skids, boom and mainframe. If you did, how did it work out for you and what was the cost?

sgtmike74

04-03-2006, 09:30 PM

oh crap that pic came out bigger then I thought :eek:

Nismo

04-05-2006, 07:24 AM

WHOOP, I guess i am part of the group lol. My BCP doesnt have much going on except an upgraded boom from align and a heatsink for the main motor. :). The 4-1 is nice and compact but I think I am going to upgrade all the electronics and stuff. I might get a better main and tail motor as well. Whats this about a belt conversion? It might be old news but I just found this out. Anyone got a link?

rc guy

04-05-2006, 04:44 PM

sgtmike74

04-07-2006, 08:00 PM

Well I just ordered my first LiPo battery for my Blade CP. Do anyone have any recommendation on a good (yet modest priced) charger. I'm hoping to have one that is AC/DC seeing as how I plan to do most of my flying out in my yard.

Mark Jester

04-07-2006, 08:41 PM

Personally I use the very modest Thunder Power TP 425. It seems to work well. Of course modest does not include a balancer. You just set the charging rate and the cell count, hit the start button and away you go. It beeps when its done. I am pretty convinced that anything from Thunder Power is good stuff. I think I paid something like 50.00 for it. Talk to you later. M

sgtmike74

04-08-2006, 11:22 PM

Its looks pretty good, I just wish you could plug it into a wall outlit.

sgtmike74

04-09-2006, 05:47 AM

I have a question concerning the 4in1. What do it mean when your light flashes red. Mine only goes red if I give near 80% to 90% throttle. My buddy's 4in1 on the other hand seems to be flashing fast all of the time. What do this light mean??

Mark Jester

04-10-2006, 02:00 PM

I have mine set up to work from my car, a spare motorcyce battery on my work bench and I have it hooked up to a Radio Shack power converter (DC power supply). It works really well with the ac to dc converter.

sgtmike74

04-18-2006, 04:47 AM

OK guys I have a question. My buddy and I both fly Blade CPs. For the past two days we were flying at a local field with only a light wind blowing. We have flown in these conditions many of times with no problems. Yesterday my buddy noticed that he was getting a pitching wobble that spread throughout his entire airframe. It would start small and become bigger and bigger to the point he would have to ditch in some soft grass. I have had wobbles before due to too much pitch in the blades. He would decrease the pitch and continue to fly with no wobble. Well today the wobble came back with a vengence. He was flying in some "S" patterns when the wobble started with no warning and became uncontrolable very quickly. The blades actually folded up bringing the heli down (luckly the ground broke the fall). I remember another friend of mine mentioning that sometimes the 4 in 1's gyro or esc could be starting to go bad. Have anyone here ever experience this or have any advice on how to correct it. At this very moment he his replacing a broken rotor head and I would hate to see him crash again due to this "KILLER WOBBLE FROM HELL!!!"

axis

04-24-2006, 07:55 PM

Is the motor going away?? I had a motor begin to die once and it did that oscillation thing due to lack of power..

sgtmike74

04-25-2006, 05:40 AM

I'm gonna ask him about the motor. He do have the upgraded skids from Helidirect installed but I have the same on my blade with no problems (it's actually more stable)

sgtmike74

04-26-2006, 03:24 AM

I just wanted to see if anyone notice longer flight time when using Flatbottom blades with Lipos as oppose to Symetrical. I hovered with the same lipo on symetrical and flat bottom and noticed an increase in flight time by 8 MINUTES with the flatbottom!! Could there have been something else to increase the time??

Mini-Dub

04-26-2006, 07:34 AM

I recently got my first heli, the Blade CX and have been getting pretty confident with it but want a little more challenging heli to fly and something that can do more aerobatic stuff even though I'm not ready for it right now. I was thinking about waiting until the CP pro came out in a little while and getting that since it's already got the mods most people are doing to the CP from what I've been reading. How difficult would the CP be to fly for a pretty confident CX pilot? Would the CP be easier to fly than the CP pro because it doesn't have the 3D upgrades? This heli stuff is just way too fun :D , I know I'm in trouble now :eek: . Thanks.

sgtmike74

04-26-2006, 07:27 PM

Yes there is gonna be a big difference between the CP and the CX. All of the contra rotating helis I've seen seem to "steer like a car" as oppose to banking or pitching like the CCPM w/tail booms helis. Its gonna take more effort on your part to keep it under control. That being said its not impossible at all to learn. The CP was my first heli and although I have had my shares of "hard landings :eek: " I have also progessed with it. You just have to take your time and don't try to do too many things at once or too soon. If I had a choice I would go for the CP Pro for the Brushless setup alone. Well thats my $.02 worth, have fun flying!

sgtmike74

04-29-2006, 02:05 AM

Mini-Dub

05-03-2006, 05:39 AM

Have anyone ever used a 4in1 controler from E Sky. If you have let me know if its the same as from E flite. I fried my 4 in 1 when I forgot to switch back from idle up mode during a crash. Smoke was coming out of the 4in1 box. The link to the E sky 4 in 1 is here.

http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=38_66&products_id=684

I was pointed towards a comparison between the Blade CP and HoneyBee CP2, here's what it said about the electronic systems:

"The Blade has an lighted meter denoting battery strength, while the Honeybee has a LCD display of voltage. The Honeybee also has a low battery alarm."

I'm guessing the E-sky 4in1 is actually better (and cheaper I believe) than the E-flight's 4in1. The display voltage might not be as easy to see from far away like the LED on the E-flight, but I'd much rather have an alarm go off to tell me to stop flying before I damage the Lipo pack ;) . Hope this helps you some.

After reading the comparison it seems like the CP2 is a much better bird, I think I'm going to put together an order now for one :D . So many of the parts are compatible on the 2 birds that if I didn't have an extra part I ordered I'm sure the hobbyshop might have one in stock. But I just plan on stocking up on extra parts because the parts for the CP2 are so much cheaper from HeliDirect. This stuff is way too much fun :) .

sgtmike74

05-18-2006, 05:29 AM

Gotta a question concerning the tail motors. What is the average life span of one if you are using lipos and doing alot of fast foward flight? I had one just go dead on me in midflight but luckely the heli landed in some brush.

Mark Jester

05-18-2006, 06:07 AM

People have always said that they go out pretty fast. They even have a two motor system for the tail that of course, cuts the work load for the motor in half. The one thing I have found is that those motors are really cheap. I have seen output side bearings come loose from the motor case causing the output shaft to wobble. It is amusing to hear when that happens. Sounds like someone stepped on a cat!

There has got to be an alternative motor like from Mabushi or someone. The two tail motor looks promising. It is a little spendy but in theory, it should increase the motor life by well, a hundred percent. Talk to you later!

MJ

AaronS

05-25-2006, 02:57 AM

there is a little more to the dual motor thing than just a reduced load... you run the motors in series, and each motor only sees half the voltage, so you can run a 3 cell lipoly pack and still keep the motors running in their rated voltage range. :cool:

sgtmike74

05-25-2006, 05:15 AM

Budget permiting I might get the dual setup, on the other hand I am also thinking about getting into the nitros and will need all of the dough I can spare lol :o

Mark Jester

05-25-2006, 06:07 AM

Yes sir, nitro would be OK. I am told that it is roughly double the cost of an electric. I would be so busy praying I didn't crash I would not have any fun! But nitros are simply bigger. Bigger means more money. If the mains are like two or three foot long that's a lot of buckaroos.

On a personal note, I enjoy the interaction here. No big egos, just people sharing their love of flight, in whatever form it takes. Thanks!

sgtmike74

05-26-2006, 05:07 AM

Well I just purchased a Raptor 30 V2 used for $180. This is the first step and I still need the Radio and Electronics. I think the best way to approach this hobby if you are on a budget like myself is not to get too rapped up on the latest greatest thing. I know there are guys out there thats gonna want to trade up to the next big thing, and I'll be right there to buy thier used stuff that might not have all the bells and whistles but still get the job done at half the price. As long as you have patience and keep an eye open for deals this hobby is affordable. As far as my little Blade CP you better believe I'll still be flying it. I've learned so much on it and its soooo easy to get it up and flying. I also travel alot and its much easier to pack a BCP then it is a larger heli.

Here's to all of the bargain hunters!!! :D

Mark Jester

05-26-2006, 06:47 AM

I agree. A lot of people think the newest is the best and greatest. Personally, I think the combination of decent parts makes or breaks a helo. Example: You can own a Pentium 16 (I just made that up) operating at say, 15gh. If you only have 16 megs of ram it won't matter how fast your processor is. Same with me. I have an optic 6 instead of an Eclipse. I have a shogun instead of a swift. But if you suck as a pilot it won't matter anyway! I think that the gas manufacturers are going to take note of how popular electric is and will reduce the price of their helos to be competitive. Good luck with your helo!