Freya Blade Link Sanity Check

[kcgraves]

Just putting the Freya back together after an undetermined mechanical failure last Sunday (we think the front ball (elevator see-saw) pulled out of the composite swash. It now has a nice new QuickUK metal swash on it and a few hundred buck worth of other new parts. :eek:

But my question is does the angle of this blade grip link look like too much? The balls are flush on the grip and on the mixing arm so there is not much room for play. This is an FZIII head.

[schluterdude]

that angle would be o.k. but..... does that link drag on the blade grip arm at all? looks like if everything moved just right, pressure from the grip arm might cause it to pop off...

[kcgraves]

It does not appear to touch it but that was one of my theories when it just nosed into the ground last Sunday. A link popped off. I just found a ball with a shoulder on it, I'm going to put that on the mixing arm and see. It should decrease the angle slightly. Here are some pics with the new ball. Still close to the grip but not as much of an angle.

[schluterdude]

that looks a little better. all you can do is move things all over the place on the bench looking for a bind point... if it checks out there, spin her up, and take it easy the first flight to see what happens!

[Ots]

Even though my Freya has been decommissioned the head is still intact. It's an all-metal head, not the plastic version but I kind of want to think the design philosophy wouldn't change with the choice of material. The point is my links and such are all 90 degrees. Those pitch links in your photos on the blade grips that are on an angle don't look right. It looks like the blade grip needs to be a bit further away to allow the link to sit straight up, like maybe a spacer between the hub and blade grip were missing or something. I'm sure it's not that simple and it may be fine as it is. It just seems the geometry would be the same on either head, plastic or metal.

[ErichF]

No problem there with that geometry. Happy Flying!

[Ots]

It's not a Kyosho.

[ErichF]

I know that...what's that got to do with anything?

I competed with Freya X-Specs for two years...

[blax1]

I agree sure looks out of whack Kc, spin her up take it easy.... :)

[kcgraves]

Thanks for the input guys. I'll spool it up and see how it is. Still have a few other things to put back together on it. I'm leaving the balls with the shoulder on the mixing arms, just seems to take some of the potential of the link rubbing on the grip away.

Ots, all the spacers, shims, etc. are on the feathering spindle, any more and I would need a longer spindle. The only way that I can see to make it 90 degrees would be if the seesaw had less material where the mixing arm mounted or the collar that the mixing arm is attached to was a little narrower. I think this is the way it is on this one.

Thanks again and I'll let you know how it works.

[Ots]

It's probably fine then.

[ErichF]

All you are seeing is the designed-in Delta offset. See my pics attached for various settings I used on my competition birds...

[vermonster]

From viewing Erichs pictures it looks the same KC.:cool:

[Ots]

I don't mean to be argumentative with this, but I feel compelled to show why I said what I said.

[vermonster]

I don't mean to be argumentative with this, but I feel compelled to show why I said what I said.

Ots what's the deal? All three pictures 2 from Erich and yours the ball links are all different where they are connected to the main grip. WTF :confused:

[ErichF]

That's because they are very different heads. The head Ots displayed is the SSZ-II.

The head from the KC's bird is the FFZ-III, the plastic version of my SSZ-III. The II head uses different pitch arms, grips, and wider yoke.

Ots is comparing apples and oranges.

The two pictures I posted are actually the same head using different Delta Offsets. The first has about 5mm of positive, or "correcting" delta, and the second has 10mm of negative, or "uncorrecting" delta offset.

The point is...the angle of the pitch link is irrevelent, folks. As long as the ball links don't bind, it's fine.

But don't take my word for it, I've only been doing this for 21 years....

[Ots]

I was merely attempting to explain why I said what I did. This was all an attempt to offer what little help we could to KC in response to his question.

And, Eric, I'm sure you're correct in the information you provided. But don't for a moment think that 21 years buys you any authority whatsoever. I know people that have been doing things a lot longer and still haven't a clue.

[kcgraves]

OK here is another concern, again if that collar on the mixing arm was not so big this would not be a problem and the link would also be straighter. If you look at the cap head screw that holds the mixing arm on it is hitting the plastic flybar cage. I am trying to find a button head 2.6x15mm screw to replace it. It is either that or grind down the cap head a little bit. I have been looking for the metal flybar cage but all I can find are ones that say NOT for the FFZ-III. Unless you buy the entire metal head. Time to call MRC I guess.

I know this is big but you need it to see the interference.

[Ots]

Wow - that's way different than mine.

[kcgraves]

I think the collar is too big but that is what it calls for:

http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=heli&Product_Code=2521080

[Ots]

Mine uses the same part number but it's in the center of the arm.

I just looked up the two manuals - mine is not an Evo and yours is. That must be the head difference Eric was refering to.

I just can't imagine that there would be the kind of binding evident in your photo unless somewhere along the way someone switched parts or something.

[kcgraves]

That is what I've been wondering if someone switched something. I purchased the frame off ebay and the head was already put together. My problem is what is the wrong part? The mixing arms are new but the the seesaw, and cage are original. So who know what is wrong. Everything looks like the manual and from what pics I can find online.

I just found this part. I wonder if this is what I should use. 3mm less collar from the looks of it which would move the mixing arm in and straighten out the ball links, and move that screw away from the plastic piece.

http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=heli&Product_Code=2521093&Category_Code=2521

[Ots]

But the manual for yours calls out the part you have.

You would almost have to have a side-by-side comparison to catch any problems. The clearances in my non-evo head are pretty substantial everywhere.

It's interesting to note that the non-Evo manual calls out part number 0414-107 for the flybar cage plastic ends and the Evo, for the same part (drawing looks the same) is 0414-390.

Almost suggests a dimension difference between the two. My metal non-Evo flybar cage end is 2.138 inches wide. I don't have the plastic one anymore.

[kcgraves]

I'm not near mine to measure it at the moment but I found this pic from Jason Chan's page of the EVO 90 at a show the blade links are angled the same as mine. So maybe I just have a screw with too big a head. I'm going to order that other spacer though and some new screw

http://www.jason.net/heli/photos/news/shi0505/hir007.jpg

http://www.jason.net/heli/evo90.htm

[Ots]

Sounds good.

[vermonster]

I don't know.........:confused: something don't just look right. The fly bar cage (stabilizer) shouldn't be hitting the mixing arm bolt. Looks like KC has all the right part numbers.:confused:

[Ots]

I think he's going to fix that.

[kcgraves]

I ordered the parts for the head that I haven't replace yet so we will see what is wrong, or maybe that is just the way it is. Any pics I find on the net show that angle but the screw is too close to that Arm and actually has hit it from what I can see on the plastic. We'll see.

Ots, There is yet a third part number for the Stabilizer Control Arm 414-419. According to Ron Lund's store it replaces 414-390. Parts should be here Wed or Thurs. Had to order them for Heliproz, Ron was out of them.