MSH Heli - Protos Build Thread

[HeliRaptor]

I decided that I would do an in depth build similar to the one I did for the Raptor 30 about 3 years ago.

So in start I have just a few pics of the Box, the contents of the box and of course the contents laid out on a table. I labeled the contents but I am not sure that they can be read or not.

I am going to start on this build and will start by building the heli in the order it is described in the manual on the CD that it came with.

I will do my best to describe each step with text and pictures. I will point out any tips or flaws that I see personally. I have no relationship with MSH or Corrado (the owner / designer) of this heli so there will be only my personal beliefs here.

For those of you who are not familiar with Corrado he is known for his CNC upgrades from HeliUp.com (I believe he left Heliup and started MSH).

There are many build threads on this heli on HeliFreak and RCGroups (and others I am sure). I wanted to do one specifically for RCHeliForum.com since the Protos Forum is new to us and this is one of the first posts in it.

So here goes.....

Stay tuned as I will likely be building this heli throughout the day and updating as I go through each step / bag.

Are you ready?

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/1.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/2.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/3.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/4.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 1 - Bag A

This consists of building the core of the Protos. It requires 3 servos and Bag A.

I do not have the servos right now so I will build all that can be built so that the build can continue.

Notice in the pictures below I have the bearings installed in the Upper and Lower Servo Frames. In the Lower Servo Frame I have installed 2 screws to hold the bearing in place.

This step was very accurate and easy to follow.

TIP When installing the bearing retaining screws be sure not to over tighten them as they are installed into plastic.

Tools Needed 2.0mm Alen Wrench, I recommend the Dynamite brand as they are of high quality and work excellent. Of course any allen wrench that is 2.0mm should work just fine.

Note: I will remove this core when it is time to install the servos. If they can be installed with this in place I will note how I do it in a future step.

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/5.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 2 - Bag B

This is a very simple step.

TIP The only tip here is to be sure to install the Guide Pulley Spacers as they play an important role to prevent the pulley from sliding left to right and wearing down the mount it is installed in.

Tools Needed No Tools needed

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/6.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 3 - Bag B

This step has you install the Upper and Lower Servo Frames. You also install the Belt Guide Pulley from Page 2 and the motor mount. Please use loctite where indicated.

TIP #1 When installing the Lower Servo Frame (Use Loctite if you already installed your servos. Do not use Loctite if you did not install the servos as the Lower Servo Frame slides to adjust to the size of your servos.

TIP #2 When installing the Belt Guide Pulley be sure not to over tighten the screws as they are installed into plastic.

TIP #3 When installing the motor mount I suggest to not use loctite until you are ready to set belt tension then tighten 1 screw on each side and loctite the remaining screws then remove the others and loctite them.

Tools Needed 2.0mm Alen Wrench and Blue Loctite.

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/7.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 4 - Bag B

This step has you mate the Left and Right side Frames. Please use loctite where indicated.

TIP #1 When installing the Lower Servo Frame (Use Loctite if you already installed your servos. Do not use Loctite if you did not install the servos as the Lower Servo Frame slides to adjust to the size of your servos.

TIP #2 When installing the self tapping screw be sure not to over tighten the screw as it is installed into plastic.

TIP #3 When installing the motor mount I suggest to not use loctite until you are ready to set belt tension then tighten 1 screw on each side and loctite the remaining screws then remove the others and loctite them.

Tools Needed 2.0mm Alen Wrench, small phillips screwdriver and Blue Loctite.

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/8.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/9.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 5 - Bag B

This step has you install the landing gear/struts.

TIP #1 I recommend installing the skids into the struts before mounting to the frame. There is a notch that is audible when you slide the skids into the struts. You will need to install both struts from the rear of the skids. Once you get the first one on you must give a little extra force to get it to pass the notch as you can not install the strut from the front of the skid.

Tools Needed 2.0mm Alen Wrench.


Thoughts so far on the kit overall. The kit appears to be very well thought out. I like the 3 bearings on the main shaft. This will give the machine lots of support. So far there are 2 things that I dislike about the kit. The first is just how the kit is made and not a big deal but can be an annoyance in the future. This first dislike is the Lower Bearing for the main shaft is inserted into the Main Frame, this means you need to split the frame to replace this bearing. This is not something that is regularly required. The second dislike is the rear mounting screws that attach the landing gear. They are 16mm long and stick out quite a bit. The front mounting screws are only 10mm long and fit perfectly. At this time I see no purpose to this. If there is no reason for them to be this long I will likely replace them at some point with 10mm ones.

Overall there is no reason that I would re-consider owning this machine. So far the build is going smooth and there are no issues that affect the build or quality of the machine. The documentation is great, accurate and easy to follow.

Now for some more building.

EDITED: I now know why the Rear Bolts are so long, they are used on Page 25 to hold the Boom Supports Down. I should have known there was a reason. I guess there is no need for me to replace them with 10mm ones. LOL :)

EDITED: If I pay attention to the foot notes in the manual then I would have known why these were long. It is called out on the left side of page 5 at the bottom. :o

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/10.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/11.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 6 - Bag B

Here we install the Swash Plate Stabilizer and the Canopy Posts.

Tip 1 Remember to use loctite only on half of the post for the Canopy Posts (the half that goes into the frame)

Tip 2 Remember when tightening the screws to the Swash Plate Stabilizer not to over tighten the screws as you are installing into plastic. Also be sure not to over tighten the Canopy Posts for the same reason.

Tools Needed 2.0mm Alen Wrench, 4.0mm wrench or needle nose pliers and Blue Loctite.

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/12.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 7 - Bag C

Here we install the Main Gear, Belt and Main Shaft.

Tip 1 Remember to slide the belt into the frame before installing the main gear and main shaft.


Tools Needed 2.5mm Alen Wrench, 1.5mm Alen Wrench, 2.0mm L Shaped Alen Wrench and Blue Loctite.

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/13.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Well I hit my first gotcha on this heli.

Bag C1 is missing from my kit. I looked all over in case I dropped it or miss-placed it.

Bag C1 contains the Swash Plate which is the next step on Page 8.

The kit came from www.RCHover.com. I send them an email as I do not suspect they are open today. I will follow up with a Phone Call in the AM or early afternoon and see of there is any chance I can Drive there and pick one up.

Did I mention I dislike/hate missing parts. I was so excited to build this kit and document it and now my bubble has burst.

[HeliRaptor]

Page 8 - Bag C

Now that I got the Swash Plate issue resolved (Swash was missing from my kit) I can complete this step.

Here we install the balls onto the swash along with a spacer and a couple bearings.

Tip 1 Be sure to add Blue Loctite to all of the Balls on the swash. Just a drop will do and snug the screws up about 1/8 turn after they are seated.

Tip 2 As always it is a good idea to allow the Loctite to dry for at least 24 hours before running your machine. In this case that is simple to do since this is purely a kit build and no electronics yet.

Tools Needed 1.5mm Allen Wrench and Blue Loctite

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/14.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 9 - Bag C

Here we build the links and install them from Servo to Swash Plate.

Since I do not have the servos yet I can not install them. But then again, even if I did have the Servos I still can not install them as I am missing the Swash Plate.

Just the same I do know which servos I will be installing (Futaba S9650's) so I built them to the specs on page 9 for these servos.


Tools Needed Caliper. I prefer the digital ones for ease of use and Ball Link Reamer.


NOTE: Now that I have the Swash Plate installed and all links built I fit all of the links using the provided Ball Link Reamer Tool. It took 7 turns at 90 deg. and 3 turns each of the 4 points on a 45 deg angle. The Head moves nice and free and no links will pop off. I recommend test fitting yours before reaming, if reaming is needed do just a little at a time.

NOTE: I decided to go with JR 3517 Servos

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/15.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/16.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 10 - Bag D

This is where we build the Washout. This is straight forward and can be followed via the documentation without issue.

Tip 1 Pay close attention to how tight you tighten the ball on the control arms as well as all other screws here as you are installing into plastic. The directions state to go 1/8 turn after seated.

Tools Needed 1.5mm Allen Wrench

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/17.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 11 - Bag D

This step is very simple. You install the washout onto the main shaft and connect to the Swash Plate.

Here I will install it onto the main shaft but leave out the Swash Plate as I do not have one.

I will update this image when the Swash Plate Arrives and is built

Tools Needed Ball Link Pliers

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/18.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 12 - Bag D

This step is very simple. You start the build for the machined head.

Tip 1 As with all other tips please do not over tighten the screws or balls as you are installing into the plastic.

Tools Needed 1.5mm Allen Wrench, 2.0mm Allen Wrench and Blue Loctite

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/19.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page(s) 13 & 14 - Bag D

Here I decided to do both Page 13 and 14 in one step.

Tip 1 The manual states to set the paddles 92.5mm from the outer edge of the cage. What I recommend is to center the flybar first. To do this I set the Caliper to 94.25mm and measured from the outer edge of the cage to the shoulder by the threads on the opposite end. Once this is done I set on set screw in place to measure both sides to verify center. If Centered I then Loctite the remaining 3 screws, then I remove the first screw and add loctite there. Once done your flybar should be cenetered.

Tip 2 The spin the paddles on until the shoulder disappears. Verify that the paddles are going in the right direction. Now turn the paddles 5 full turns. You should now have 92.5mm or be really close. Now all you need to do is level the paddles to one another. For now you can eyeball this using the cage.

Tools Needed 1.5mm Allen Wrench, Caliper, Ball Link Pliers and Blue Loctite

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/20.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 15 - Bag D

This is where we assemble the blade grips and install Radial Bearings and Thrust Bearings.

Tip 1 Be sure to pay close attention to how the thrust bearings get installed. The inner and outer race are clearly marked.

Tip 2 As with all the other tips be sure not to over tighten the screws or balls that install into plastic.

Tools Needed 1.5mm Allen Wrench

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/21.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 16 - Bag D

Here we attach the blade grips to the head.

Tip 1 To make this easy I would suggest installing one grip on the spindle and then slide it through the head and complete the other side.

Tip 2 Be sure to slide something through the grip to align the spaces that are in there as they do not fully touch the side walls of the grip. Assuring that you align these it will make for an easier installation.

Tools Needed 2.5mm Allen Wrench and Blue Loctite

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/22.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 17 - Bag D

Here we install the head on to the main shaft and install the remaining Linkages.

Tip 1 You will need to make use of the Ball Link Reamer here. All links are way to tight. I haven't done this yet as I am just building and documenting the build. I will do this when I receive the Swash Plate so that I can do the entire head all at once.

Tools Needed 2.5mm Allen Wrench, Ball Link Pliers, Ball Link Reamer and Blue Loctite.

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/23.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 18 - Bag E and Boom

This is another very simple step. You build the tail guide pulleys and install them onto the boom.

Tip 1 Be careful not to over tighten the screws as they install into plastic.

Tools Needed Small Phillips Screwdriver

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/24.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 19 - Bag E

This is yet another easy to follow step. You assemble the boom onto the helicopter and slide the belt through the boom.

Tools Needed 2.0mm Allen Wrench

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/25.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 20 - Bag F

Here we assemble the tail case and pulleys.

Tip 1 Be sure not to over tighten the guide / tension pulley as it will not spin freely if you do.

Tip 2 Do not forget to use CA glue on the main pulley (the one with 2 half's), also when installing this be sure to install the 4 spacers 2 on each side of the pulley. The tolerances are very close and you need these to keep the pulley from moving side to side and chewing the tail case up.

Tip 3 Tail Belt needs a 90 degree twist. If you are looking at the boom from the back you want to twist the belt counter clockwise 90 deg. When the tail blades are on this machine they should spin counter clockwise if you are looking at them from the right side of the machine.

Tools Needed 2.0mm Allen Wrench and CA Glue

NOTE: Initial thoughts on the Tail fin are that it is very Fragile. This might be something to modify or buy a Carbon upgrade. More on this when I give Autos a try or have a bumpy landing.

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/26.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 21 - Bag F

Here we assemble the Tail Pitch Slider.

Tip 1 The Brass sleeve needs to be screwed on square with the plastic arm. This took me 2 tries to get right. It is important that you get this perfectly square or you risk having a shake in your tail.

NOTE: In the note on Page 21 it states: 50057Tail pitch plate MSH 50099, must screw in to slide shaft MSH 50061 perfectly squared. (Part MSH 50099 is actually a Hex Screw, it should refer to part MSH 50093 instead).

Tip 2 One thing that doesn't seem to be mentioned anywhere (unless I overlooked it) is that the Ball Links should only go on one way. It is visibly noticeable if you look closely. This is important as it will help prevent a ball link from popping off. This is true of all links on the heli.

Tools needed 7mm Wrench

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/27.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 22 - Bag F

This is a simple step as well. Here we assemble and install the Tail Control Pitch Lever.

Tip 1 As with all other steps be careful not to over tighten the screws that install into the plastic.

Tools Needed 1.5mm Allen Wrench, 2.0mm Allen Wrench and a 5mm wrench

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/28.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 23 - Bag F

Here we install the Radial Bearings into the Tail Blade Grips and install the Tail Hub onto the Tail Shaft.

Tip 1 As with the other steps be sure not to over tighten the screws that go into the plastic.

Tools Needed 1.5mm Allen Wrench and Blue Loctite

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/29.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/30.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 24 - Bag F

This step is another very simple one. You need to install the Blade grips and the tail blades.

Tip 1 Be sure that the Ball Links on the Tail Pitch Slider are going the right way before popping them onto the Tail Blade Grips. If they are wrong reverse them.

Tools Needed 2.0mm Allen Wrench, 2.5mm Allen Wrench, Ball Link Pliers and Blue Loctite.

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/31.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 25 - Bag G

This is a step that requires time to allow Epoxy to dry.

Here I mixed the Epoxy applied and set the rods in their final position and will allow them to dry Over Night before moving them for adjustment.

Tip 1 Be sure to have everything ready to work quickly.

Tools Needed 2.0mm Allen Wrench, 5mm Wrench and Slow Drying Epoxy

There are 2 pictures here. One of them is to show the screws that I thought were long from Page 5 in the Manual.

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/32.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/33.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page 26 - Bag G

This step also requires some slow drying Epoxy.

Tools Needed Ball Link Pliers and Slow Drying Epoxy

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/34.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/35.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Here is a picture with the motor mounted (temporary), Canopy and Blades.

I will document the Motor and electronics in the Future. This is as far as I can go until I get the Swash Plate.

This is one nice design and it appears to be solid.

My only gripe about this Heli is the missing Swash Plate and the fact that it came with a 18T Pinion and the recommended pinion for 6S is 15T and the heli is most commonly used with 6S.

When I pickup the Swash Plate I will likely pick up a 15T Pinion.

Enjoy the final pic for tonight.

NOTE: The bag is marked 18T Pinion when in fact it is a 15T Pinion

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/36.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

I stopped by RCHover this morning (Just got back) and Jeremy took care of me without issue. He gave me a New Swash Plate right of the shelf.

While there I picked up a few spares to have for future needs.

I also picked up the 15T Pinion as that is the pinion needed for the batteries I will be using and my target head speed of around 2800 RPM.

Now to complete the build.

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/37.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Well I got another interesting find with this kit. The parts bag labels the pinion as 18T when in fact it is a 15T pinion. I double checked this to be sure. I now have an extra pinion for Future use.

[HeliRaptor]

I just finished installing the Swash Plate and sizing all the links. I updated the previous posts that were missing this info.

Here is an updated image of the head.

I have some more work to do as the drive system is a bit tight. The belt is loose so I am assuming either I got some loctite in a bearing or I damaged a bearing when inserting sleeves. I picked up some extra parts just in case it is a mistake I made.

This thread will now be on hold until I purchase the electronics. I may use this thread to document the install or start a new one. Time will tell.

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/38.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

I have some more work to do as the drive system is a bit tight. The belt is loose so I am assuming either I got some loctite in a bearing or I damaged a bearing when inserting sleeves. I picked up some extra parts just in case it is a mistake I made.

This problem(s) has been identified and corrected.

Problem 1 The pinion was upside down. This was causing the motor to turn causing some extra drag.

Problem 2 The rear idler pulley / tension pulley was not spinning causing drag. This is a result of damaged bearings during the installation of the sleeve / bushing. When I installed it, it was tight so I tapped it into place causing damage. I had suspected this as a trouble spot and bought a replacement today while at RCHover. The new one was also very tight. This time I did tap it into place but used a soft aluminum block to tap it completely flat and even reducing the chances of damage. She now spins freely like it was designed.

The drive system seems to be smooth now.

[HeliRaptor]

Final Images until Electronics installation.

Here are 2 images: 1 of the Protos Kit Complete and one with the Protos and the T-Rex 450 side by side.

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/39.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/40.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Well after some research on specs and what I am after for this machine this setup has changed drastically.

Here is the new setup:

Motor - Stock Motor until I can out fly it (Already Have)
Batteries - OUTRAGE XP25 6S1P 3300mAH 25C (Same price as the 2500mAH) x 4
Servos - JR DS3517 MG x 3
Gyro - JR JRPG7703DC3 G7703D/S3500G Gyro/Servo
RX- AR 7000 (Already Have)
ESC - Scorpion SW60AESC 6-cell 60 Amp ESC with Switching BEC

[HeliRaptor]

I could not take waiting any longer so I placed the order today.

Here's what I went with:

1 x JR G770 3D Gyro (JRPG7703D)

1 x JR DSM Double Aluminum Transmitter Case (JRPA700)

1 x JR X9303 2.4Ghz DSM2 9Ch Helicopter Radio System, No Servos, R921 DSM2 Receiver (JRP2925)

5 x Deans Ultra Plug (1 pair) (WSD1300)

1 x Thunder Power TP1010C 1-10 Cell Li-Poly DC Charger (THP1010)

3 x FlightPower EVO25 6S1P Lithium Polymer Battery (22.2V/2500mAh) (FPWEVO25-25006S)

1 x JR DS3500G Ultra Speed Mini Gyro Servo (JRPS3500G)

3 x JR DS3517MG High Speed Mini Metal Gear Servo (JRPS3517MG)

1 x Scorpion 60A 6-Cell Brushless ESC with Switching BEC (SCP-SW60AESC)

[HeliRaptor]

Delivery Confirmation - Scheduled Delivery is Feb. 04, 2009.

Looks like I am not feeling well tomorrow. LOL.

I guess I need to work from home.

[HeliRaptor]

All parts arrived and I started finishing her up.

I got servos installed, Gyro, batteries and so on.

I took her out for a test hover yesterday and got it up about 2 feet, it was really sensitive and kind of dark. So I opted to wait until today.

SPAMES stopped by and helped me tidy up the wires. It looks good.

Unfortunately something went wrong with the Speed Controller, I plugged it in this morning to work on it and the speed controller puffed red smoke and burned up.

I am having no luck with speed controllers lately. I checked the input Voltage and Output voltage and all was good. Wiring is correct, I guess I just got a bad one.

Pics and descriptions of installation tips soon to come.

[HeliRaptor]

Page(s) 1 - Bag A

Here I removed the head as one full unit. Then I removed the servo upper and lower servo frame from the heli.


Tip 1 Before installing the servos I strongly recommend installing the servo horns first. To do this properly you will need to do some basic transmitter setup and connect the servos to your receiver. Once you setup your transmitter lay your servos on the bench in the order they will be installed like in picture 2. Now you can center your servo horns before cutting the excess arms off. Get the servo horns as close to center before using subtrim to set them exactly 90 degrees. Once you get them set be sure to install the ball (16mm from center of screw to ball, JR servo horns don't come in 16mm so I used 16.5mm) and it's nut on the back side using blue loctite. Don't forger to use blue loctite on the screw that holds the servo horn in place as well (only use blue loctite if you are using metal gear servos).

Tip 2 Because I chose JR Servos I need to perform an extra step that is not necessary with the Futaba Servos. Where the servos mount to the servo frames you will see that JR adds a small gusset that needs to be ground out. I use a dremel with a round flat stone to grind them out and flush. You can see this in picture 2. You also need to enlarge the mounting holes. For this I used a tapered stone in my dremel. I just ran it through a little from both sides until the servo adapters fit. I am pretty fussy about play so I took extra time here to be sure everything is nice and snug / tight. You can see this in picture 2 as well.

Tools Needed 1.5mm and a 2.0mm Allen Wrench, dremel and stones, Ball Link Pliers and Blue Loctite, Philips screw driver

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/41.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/42.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/43.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/44.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Page(s) 9 - Bag C

Here you can see that the servos are installed and the connecting rods are in place. The connecting rods were built in a previous step in the build and now are finally fully installed.

Tip 1 Route the wiring carefully to prevent it from getting into the main gear or belt. The wiring can be easily run through the frame and out of the way.


Tools Needed Ball Link Pliers, 4 inch zip ties, wire cutters

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/45.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Here I show the wiring all tidied up and the RX installed as well as the remote rx installed.

The way the Protos is designed there is plenty of space to hide and route your wires with minimal exposure.

I also chose to use the AR7000 rather than the 9 Channel RX that came with the JR X9303 as I am going to save that for my next build. Could be next month if all goes well (hint, hint).

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/46.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/47.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Here you see the Tail Servo and Gyro mounted. Nothing special about this other than the wire covering and the fact that there is minimal wire exposure.

You can see in picture 2 that I drilled a small hole in the back of the frame to run the wires inside the frame rather than have them bunched up outside the heli. There is enough flexibility in case of a mishap.

A lot of time went into the wire routing. A big THANKS goes to SPAMES for stopping by and helping me decide on which would look the best and helping me put the wire covering on.

This keeps the heli very clean looking.

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/48.jpg

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/49.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

Here I just took a quick picture with the battery in place (it is not fully secured) just to give you an idea of its look.

I will be programming the Transmitter maybe today. No flight testing yet as I am waiting on the Speed Controller to be warrantied.

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/50.jpg

[HeliRaptor]

I also had another issue related to my TP-210V Balancer. It did not recognize all 6 cells on the batteries.

I contacted Thunder Power and we went through a bunch of troubleshooting steps to determine if it was the Batteries (Flightpower EVO 6S 2500), charger (Thunder Power TP-1010C) or the Balancer (TP-210V).

We determined that it is in fact the balancer. Unfortunately this is over 1 year old and I do not have a receipt. He gave me a RMA and will either repair or replace it for a fee. Not sure how much but the balancer is $99 new and he said he can keep it $50 or under.

Waiting on this to properly balance the batteries as well as a replacement speed controller.

[HeliRaptor]

The balancer has already been shipped to Thunder Power. So that should not be too long I hope.

I am still waiting for a response on how to handle the Speed Controller.

The heli is near complete now. I just finished setting up the TX and pitches.

I do need to level the Swash but right now it is done by eye. G-Force Heli has one on the way to me for review for the 450/500 helis. Once I level the swash I will recheck the pitch.

I will also need to program the Speed Controller once I get that.

[HeliRaptor]

I received the Speed Controller today. I just finished installing and programming it.

Everything is ready for flight testing.

I need to spend some time with the cyclic pitch and interaction but I am going to just eyeball it until the swash leveler comes in. I can get it stable enough to do basic flight.

[HeliRaptor]

Monday I decided that I would order some spare parts in the event of a mishap.

I ordered:

Booms
Boom Supports
Flybars
Spindles
Links Small and Large
Belt
The new 10mm Blade Grips
Tail Blades
15 T Pinion

I will order some more parts soon. I nearly have enough in the event of the basic mishap. Got to be prepared.

I also ordered the Fiberglass Painted Canooy.

All of these items came in today as well.

Happy Camper I am.

[HeliRaptor]

Since I had trouble with my Thunder Power TP210 with the New Flight Power Packs for my Protos I decided to research balancers know to work with the packs I bought.

I seen this at HeliProz and ordered one today. Anyone have any input on this product?

• Intelligent Hi-Rate Equalizing balancing system for 2-6s packs.
• Charge-through balancer workS with all Lithium-Polymer chargers and FlightPower packs by connecting between the charger and the battery.
• LED's for each cell to indicate balancing activity
• Battery capacity fuel gauge
• Capability of handling charge currents of upto 10A for 2C charging of large FlightPower packs.
• Individual cell analysis and discharge features.
• Comes with a 2s/3s/6s Harness for balancing 2s/3s and 6s packs w/Highrate Balancing Connector. Also now comes with 4s & 5s harness • Compatible with all earlier FlightPower packs w/Classic Balancing Connector by using special adaptors

http://rcheliforum.com/images/protos_build/lg-fpvbal.jpg

[DVS]

Awesome thread, I love build threads. :)

[heli-cuzz]

Very nice Dennis. This is the part of building I love. Watching somebody else do it. ;)

[HeliRaptor]

Thanks. Unfortunately I get to do most of it again. It went in on its Maiden yesterday about 1 minute into its dialing in.

Here is a link to pictures and details of what happened.

http://rcheliforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=1508