Ralph's Aurora

[blax1]

Interesting box............................ :D


What is it?

[blax1]

Oh I see........................... ;)

[blax1]

This is the third one actually sold in Australia........... :cool:

I couldn't beat the first guy he's the shop owner ;) and the second guy drove there the very next day and picked his up.
I had to wait for the courier... :)


I would like to Thank Pete, the owner of Power Grunt Hobbies here in Australia, for supplying this machine.
It took a while but we all agree the wait was well worth it...... :cool:

Awesome bit of kit, this heli-

[blax1]

Carton open.. :eek:

[blax1]

Some more... :)

[Rappy1]

thats one sexy looking kit Ralph. i been checking back here every day to see when you will start your build for it. cant wait to see you build it up. Is that canopy one that needs painting? instead of stickers.

[blax1]

Hi Nathan, thank you....... :cool:

The canopy is fibre glass and needs to be finished off and painted white first then I'll apply my decals and clear shoot it a few times.

I may start on this part of the project very soon.. :)

[vermonster]

That's what they look like in the box, funny no one ever mentioned a CD. Ralph you must be ecstatic........:D

[heli-cuzz]

Sweet 90 you got there, ralph.

I'd like to know who deleted the previous Avant build thread.

[HeliRaptor]

That is one sweet machine. Looking forward to your build.

[schluterdude]

no room for jokes in the previous avant thread... but, ralph's a prankster! can't wait to see your build buddy!

[blax1]

Thanks everyone... :)

Moving on... :cool:

That's what they look like in the box, funny no one ever mentioned a CD. Ralph you must be ecstatic........

Glad you mentioned that OD, the CD has a PDF of the build manual, the latest build info is available here (http://www.avantrc.com/support/showthread.php?t=2) (you'll nead to register) and also a video of how to install the tubing in the middle of the main spindle, lots of guys use soap etc, but its a simple matter of just stretching the PVC tube with a pair of needle nose pliers when its been warmed up.

Sanded main frames using 400W&D take off any shape edges etc, dont want any short circuits on this baby.. :o

[blax1]

Bag1

Frame stand off's
Engine mount
Gyro mount
Canopy stand off's

All mounted using Loctite 243 Blue

[blax1]

Sacrificial canopy mounts, designed to break first in the event of a crash, hopefully saving the frame.

[blax1]

All screws rinsed off in Methylated spirits to remove any oil, and to help the Loctite cure properly.

[kcgraves]

Nice looking Heli Ralph, I'm a little jealous, all I got was a 450SE to put in my MD500E scale body. Keep the pictures coming as I'm now living vicariously through you. :D

[phatchantz]

from sailplanes to crawlers, I've always enjoyed the "build"......... looking forward to watching yours Ralph !

( I may have to change my "homepage" :D )

[blax1]

:)

Bag 2

Main gear sprague bearing assembly is the new modified type (brown seal)

TR drive gear also has mod'd M3x6 button head screws, as opposed to counter sunk flat head screw in earlier kits.

[blax1]

Beautiful engineering :)

[blax1]

TR drive gear.

[blax1]

Excellent literature with this machine, there are updates at AvantRC support, just download the latest version.......... :cool:

[blax1]

Found this needle point oil-er at my local hardware shop :confused:

Glad I did, awesome tool.


Gears coming together.

[blax1]

This is also why you need to wash/rinse everything........................ :eek:

Main-shaft thread swarf, left inside after machining.

[blax1]

There's a large Allen grab screw that locks up on the horizontal main gear roll pin, 243 Blue Loctite............................ :)

Now what did Finless say, Oh ya.....Don't wale on it, you guys get that? ;)

[vermonster]

Looking good Ralph




Now what did Finless say, Oh ya.....Don't wale on it, you guys get that? ;)

means/ don't hammer the snot out of it

[schluterdude]

lookin' good!

those are chips, not swarf :)

*shudder* chip makers.... sucks working on those machines....

[heli-cuzz]

Alrighty ralph, looking good. Good to see you're making sure all parts are perfect before you start building.

Ralph, keep up the great build you're performing. Get that baby in the air. :cool:

[blax1]

those are chips, not swarf :)
*shudder* chip makers.... sucks working on those machines....

Lost me.. :D

Mainshaft and bearing blocks into the frame.

[blax1]

The assembly required you to epoxy the liner into the bell.

The liner is already cut to the exact length 146mm.. :)

Note how the bell is packaged, all the "Bling" alloy component's are packaged in this expandable nylon net for transportation..

[blax1]

First I just clean the bell out with some methylated spirit, gets rid of any grease oil etc, apply a thin layer of epoxy to the liner and then just wrap it into the bell. :)

[blax1]

Then I used a hole saw from my wood cutting hole saw kit, the spring steal, was perfect to keep pressure applied to the liner whilst it cured, worked a treat and saved me rummaging around for a cap or some other device to the job.. :cool:

[blax1]

After the epoxy had cured,(I left until the next day)
I simply ran an exacto around the top of the bell to remove the excess liner, about 1/2 a mil- then sanded on piece of glass with some 400W&D to finish it off.

[blax1]

Bag 3

Assemble clutch bell and bearing blocks.. :)

[blax1]

Red loctite pinion to bearing in bearing block (being care not use to much and pump it into the bearing) then tightening the lock nut using 243 Blue.

[blax1]

Then mounting this assembly into the frame, leaving the bolts loose at this time, so engine alignment can be performed later on.

[heli-cuzz]

Then I used a hole saw from my wood cutting hole saw kit, the spring steal, was perfect to keep pressure applied to the liner whilst it cured, worked a treat and saved me rummaging around for a cap or some other device to the job.. :cool:

Looks great ralph!
Here's a great method for clutch liner installations. Use electrical tape and wrap it around the clutch shoe. Usually one wrap is suffice for proper gapping between the shoe and liner. Place the shoe with tape into the clutch bell, don't forget to epoxy the liner. Use the shaft or something that will keep the shoe centered. I use 5 minute epoxy on all my helis including the Tempest with no slippage of the liners. I always end up using a hobby knife when removing to re-install a new liner.
I havn't seen a manual that calls for any particular spacing, so I'm guessing about 1/1000th of an inch should be suffice.

Can't wait to see the baby complete. :)

[blax1]

Cheers Cuzz, I'll keep that one in mind, thats a good idea... :)

Bag 4

Tail pickup mechanism, looks complex lots of parts, but once you start its not to bad.

[blax1]

Sorting out the shims, there are.

2 x 0.1
2 x 0.2
2 x 0.3

Took me a while to work out what was going on here, I had two stuck together, got it sorted moved on.

[blax1]

In the instructions, it says you can feel the difference between the shims... :confused:

Crap.....IMO..... :rolleyes:

Out came the micrometer

[blax1]

Installing role pin in tail gear drive.

You can also hit it with punch and hammer, you need to be a consistent shot ;)

[blax1]

Tail gear bearing blocks coming together.

Using ball link pliers to press drive pin through, worked a treat... :)

[blax1]

Vertical drive assembly completed.

[blax1]

Both vertical and horizontal shafts installed.

Now the shimming process begins.

Trying to achieve

No end float.
No back lash.
Flush alignment.
Free spinning assembly.

All high spots are off set to counteract binding, this took me three goes to get it sorted properly, I ended up using two X 0.3 shims, on each shaft.

She rotates like silk, smooth as, this will be checked again after 1/2 dozen flights.

[blax1]

Total drive train now fully assembled.. :)

[olhippie]

That's pretty sweet looking Blaxman! Nice work :)

[blax1]

Bag 5

Battery/Radio plate

[blax1]

Clean injection mould dimples

[blax1]

Cut a counter sink on screw holes to make starting the screws easier :)

[blax1]

Plate mounted to one side of frame.

[blax1]

It was at this time the manual and I parted company :) (Temporarily of course)

I've read many threads about this machine, and the consensus is to fit the servos next then join the frame, this makes it so much easier to "A" get them in, and "B" start the wiring loom process using the "expandable mesh" that we spoke of some time back, even advise from my local Avant dealer said this is the way to go.. :cool:

So be it....

[Ots]

That's going to be a nice machine Ralph.

[blax1]

Thanks Ots

Cyclic and throttle servos

[blax1]

Two of these servos mount on the inside of the frame, one each side, they have a bridge reinforcement section that needs to be trimmed down, so they dont rock on the frame, out came the exacto again........... :)

[blax1]

Elevator servo in.. :)

[blax1]

Next.......... :D

[blax1]

Futaba BLS251 on TR duty... :cool:

[blax1]

All on board..

[blax1]

Only one servo on right hand frame and the second inside mounted one

[blax1]

All servos mounted with ferrules and rubbers supplied by JR, and the screws are supplied by Avant, all frame blind nuts are factory pre-crimped. (thank goodness) ;)

[blax1]

Bag 6

Boom Support
Rudder bell crank
Canopy stand offs
Ratio plate

And about 33 frame screws................. :eek:

[schluterdude]

great pics man, nice and clean with no glare from a flash :)

chips are produced during the turning/milling process of parts. swarf is what's left after grinding. each individual particle is a chip, but, collectivly, it's swarf in grinding.... very small particles. except for creepfeeds which kinda looks like a long stringy chip, but, it's still swarf....

[blax1]

Thanks schluterdude, I thought the shots may have been a bit large but no one's said anything so I'll continue at the same size, I'm using a Sony Cybershot, on macro @ at 3 mega pixel, also I slightly off set the camera to minimise flash back off CF.. seems to work :)
Plenty more shots to come, I'm way ahead in the build, I'm trying to let the photo's tell the story, I just hope I'm not boring the crap out of anyone

Creepfeeds may be akin to the twist drill in a bench drill, the long spiral threads that the twist creates when drill mild steal, correct?

[Dan]

Ralph, you are having way too much fun building this helicopter. I can hear a smile in every entry you post.

It is a fantastic looking piece of engineering and I want one.

Great pictures and a great build. It doesn't even need rude little dolls to keep it interesting which is an improvement over my builds. Good luck with it.

[cbflys]

Dude, don't forget the servo labels :p

[blax1]

It doesn't even need rude little dolls to keep it interesting which is an improvement over my builds. Good luck with it.

lol- you make me laugh Dan, your machines are engineering marvels, this is a straight forward build, there's truck load of data out there, and thank god for Finless... ;)

Dude, don't forget the servo labels

I got one labelled Chuck :o

Please standby for some questions AR7100R using limiter, 2xSat's, 1x Data Logger, and Switchglo..................I'll need a hand..........Please ;)

A few screws in the frame, she,s coming together.. :cool:

[cbflys]

Please standby for some questions AR7100R using limiter, 2xSat's, 1x Data Logger, and Switchglo..................I'll need a hand..........Please ;)
Standing by ...

[schluterdude]

Creepfeeds may be akin to the twist drill in a bench drill, the long spiral threads that the twist creates when drill mild steal, correct?[/QUOTE]


creepfeed grinding is a pretty cool, very violent sounding process. essentially, a block of metal is placed in a fixture, then a wheel with some profile (to put the shape into the block) comes down and the block passes under the wheel. depth of cut can be upwards of 1/4 inch in some applications. but, it still doesn't make a regular "chip" like a drill, lathe, mill, hobber, etc. make. it's not even shiny, it's black (usually) and has a feel simmilar to really fine steel wool (#000 or better). kinda tough to explain... check out below for examples of creepfeed applications...


http://www.grinding.com/data/all_applications/index.cgi?Key=Blohm,blohm,magerle,jung,profile,&Field=custom_99&plisting=2&Exact_multikey=1&Delim=,

[AirWolf]

Keep it coming Blax! I may not post alot, but I read through the threads on the forum every day, and the build threads are some of my favorites. The part I like most about this hobby is the building, which matches my flying style perfectly ;) . (B400 took another hard landing :( ).

You're doing a great job documenting this build Blax.

Joe

[rc heli crazy]

congrats blax sexy looking heli :cool:

[Rappy1]

thats one lovely looking machine ralph. it seems to be going together faster than the c5. I am sure you will have it setup well

[schluterdude]

ok, got off my duff and snapped a picture of a grinding coolant tank for swarf. this is from a cylindrical application. it looks like a wet nasty paste, that's because it's wet with coolant. when it dries, it get kinda cakey and gritty....

man, can't wait to see you get this bird in the air! videos too!

[Ots]

Dude, don't forget the servo labels :p

Why label them?

[schluterdude]

make life easier down the road....

[Ots]

make life easier down the road....

...How so?

[schluterdude]

at a glance you can tell which lead going into the reciever controlls what. you can also write on the labels the channel number so you know the order they go in as well. a big potential bummer mixing up two servos on the swash if you don't check your work (but all of us do, RIGHT?)

but, still, no matter how idiot proof you try and make something, there's always an idiot smart enough to get around it!

[Ots]

OK - I was just curious if there was some reason other than plug ID.

[cbflys]

Actually I was just ribbing him because he had huge lables on the servos when he built his Caliber 5. You could read them from the ground while the heli was in flight.

[Ots]

.........lol!

[cbflys]

Speaking of which - what happend Ralph? You taking a break?

[blax1]

Speaking of which - what happend Ralph? You taking a break?

No not really, something going with my anti virus, it say's this a dangerous site :confused: So I've backed off until I work it out, which should be tonight something do with Google syndication the adds in the left hand bar.

My build on the Aurora is way beyond where I'm at here, I'll try and post some shots tonight, nearly finished my canopy, applying decals later this week, should work out fine.

As for labeling servos schluterdude hit the nail on the head, I realize your just ribbing me, it was funny I labeled all the cyclic servos on the Avant and when I put the frames together two of them where covered up by the frame....so that stuffed that..... :o

Lots more to come, an amazing heli-............................. :cool:

[blax1]

Drama,s sorted back into it....... :mad:

Right side frame canopy mount attached, sorry bit glarey
Anyone know how to post multiple actually photo thumbnails (not just the link) in one post on this forum? This could take a while one by one..... :confused:

[blax1]

Nip up right hand ratio plate.

[blax1]

Rudder bell crank and support bearings.

[blax1]

Create counter sink to start thread.

[blax1]

Create thread with another screw, so the thread is pre-cut.

[blax1]

Tighten in balls, use blue loctite.

[blax1]

Boom block and bell crank mounted. :)

[blax1]

Bag 7

CCPM System and swash plate assembles.

All linkage balls screwed in with 243 Blue loctite.

[blax1]

Careful assembly of ball orientation to the shaft.

[blax1]

Ditto........................ :D

[blax1]

Installation of elevator lever.

[blax1]

Both sides done.

[blax1]

7 balls and anti rotation pin attached to swash also 3 set screws in base of swash to adjust swash bearing tension.

[blax1]

Installation of main shaft locking collar.

[blax1]

Swash lubed lightly.

[blax1]

Swash mounted.

[blax1]

Anti rotation bracket mounted.

[schluterdude]

lookin' good ralph! can almost hear the hum of the servo's and the scream of the pipe :)

[blax1]

lookin' good ralph! can almost hear the hum of the servo's and the scream of the pipe :)

Thanks, Just a little way off yet... :)


Engine time.............. :cool:

Bag 8

[blax1]

OS91SX-H C-SPEC

[blax1]

Fan and clutch time..

Crank locking tool

[blax1]

RED LOCTITE..... :mad:

No wind ups this time.

[blax1]

Check run out....................NONE on fan ............ :cool:

[blax1]

And hub...............ZIP.... :)

Also checked hub for lateral up and down movement 0.02..... I was going to hit it with a screw driver handle but thought better of it....

Let sleeping dogs lie ;)

[blax1]

Assembled..

[blax1]

OS91Sx-H C-Spec in the Heli- :)

[blax1]

Other side ..

[blax1]

Bag 9

Fan shroud

(Almost a shame to put it on)

[blax1]

Install carby.

[blax1]

Yep fits............. :D

[blax1]

I think this motor has been a hassle for some people to tune in the past(non pump version) Cline modification may be required see what happens :) ....

I don't envisage to many problems, its just a motor after all.... ;)

Maybe someone can advise me what to expect etc.... :cool:

[blax1]

Install fan shrould pre-screw to cut threads , makes life a lot easier :)

[blax1]

Damn shame to cover that motor up............... :( Beautiful piece of engineering IMHO

[blax1]

Bag 10

Skid row..................... :D

Landing gear installation.

[blax1]

Struts and skids mounted.

[blax1]

Threading grub screws.


Pre-thread first

But dont lock them up. length need to be established first-- :o

[blax1]

Jobs done........................ :cool:

[blax1]

Nice stance

[blax1]

Must find some skid end caps--- doesn't look finished IMHO.. :)

[DVS]

Looks like the build is coming along nicely.

[schluterdude]

should talk the avant people into making a thick clear fan shroud... would be a p.i.t.a. to keep clean, but, it would show off all the cool stuff whirring around :)

too bad we don't live in star trek land with transparent aluminum! would even be able to see the clutch!

[homerlex]

Looking good Ralph. I finally had a chance to read through your whole thread so far. Keep it coming :)

[blax1]

Bag 11

Base plate and right hand frame stiffener.

[blax1]

Mounted......... :)

[blax1]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bag 12

Fuel tank even though you can see in the last shot she's already onboard... :D

[blax1]

Muffler pressure nipple installed.

[blax1]

Ream out fitting to except fuel tube etc.

[blax1]

Sorting out clunk length, and doing a double roll back on fuel to clamp it properly... :cool:

[blax1]

Excess tube removed.

[blax1]

Looking good Ralph. I finally had a chance to read through your whole thread so far. Keep it coming :)

Hi homerlex thank you, a long way to go... :)

Ready for assembly.

[blax1]

Inserted into tank, spare hole filled with a screw to block it off, then tightened the assembly off to seal whole assembly into tank.

[blax1]

Squeezed into frame................ :)

[blax1]

Ok moving on back to BAG 13

TT Torque Tube.....Fiddly bugger this thing :confused: A good friend here helped me sort this out.. :cool: Its more the interpretation of the instructions than anything else, I'll explain as we go.. :)

[blax1]

Pre-thread grub screws in TT connector.

[blax1]

Fit o'rings on bearing holder male shells.

[blax1]

Thin CA then snap the halves together, not to much CA, dont get it into bearings :(

[blax1]

Bearing installed, shells all together.

[blax1]

Slide bearing holder on to TT o'rings facing in.

[blax1]

Slide inner TT plugs into tube then slide connector on to TT about a third of the way, then apply a few drops of CA around the join, then snap the tube into position tighten grub screws to almost level with connector.

[blax1]

Measure 152.4mm/6" out from connector on both ends, run some thick CA around the TT then slide the bearing back to the correct distance from the connector.

[blax1]

Use rubber grease on the bearing holder o'rings and slide into boom, jobs done...... :)

[blax1]

Skipping Bag 14 at the moment time to sort electronics using AR7100R 2x sat antenna's and a data logger.... :cool:

Assembling Servos wheels and linkages.

Firstly getting Rx and binding sorted out.

[blax1]

JR 8717's servo wheels, need to be drilled at 25mm spacing for the linkage balls the cross horn is actually 25mm at its extremities.........PERFECT.......... so its a simple matter of putting the cross horn over the wheel, to find the drill location.. :)

[blax1]

Sorting out link lengths, pre-reaming ball links etc.... :cool:

[Ots]

Overdue for an update Ralph!

[blax1]

Overdue for an update Ralph!
Sorry Ots been away


You can see through the hole in the frame the elevator arm, this has to centered perfectly as Finless does in his video, then work out were to drill holes in servo wheel for correct ball locations, all very fiddly really you kind of need three hands, so I worked out a way to hold the the lever using a cross horn with a raised egde on it, that fits into the frame hole perfectly than run a spare screw through the horn and into the lever effectively locking the lever in correct position so that you can determine ball locations correctly as can be seen in my photo, worked out really well, the other two cyclic levers I locked up with a small pair of vise grips, this also helped very much..... :cool:

Fitting balls

[blax1]

Frame hole to line up centre's

[blax1]

Using spare horn to lock elevator arm at centre and also on wheel to determine exact location for balls.

[blax1]

Elevator wheel and link in place, perfect centre's.

[blax1]

Same situation with aileron setup.

[blax1]

Same with pitch servo set up.

[blax1]

Bag 14

Assembling the tail box, similar situation as TR drive assembly.

No back lash.
Equal gear height.
No binding.

[blax1]

Select major components

[blax1]

And of course all those shims :( Just measure each one and write a note :)

[blax1]

Install TR drive gear, push in pin and lock off with grub screw.

[blax1]

Insert into TR case.

[blax1]

Lock off shaft sleeve assembly, press together by hand and tighten grub screw.

[blax1]

Install TR shaft drive, pin and lock off with grub screw.

[blax1]

Place into TR case, and start sorting your shims, using the same thickness shims on both shafts, then check for end float, and binding of gears, if you do feel binding mark the teeth with a felt pen and spin the gear 45-90o until binding is no longer felt.
I started out out with 0.3 shims and worked my way up to 0.5 which was the best feel, for my drive assembly, I did experiment with 0.4 & 0.6 but 0.5 was my best result, when completed each screw is taken out one by one and blue loctited. :cool: Of course this procedure is trail and error, and each time you change the shims, you need to take the whole assembly apart and re-assemble again until the correct shims are found.

[blax1]

Fully assembled TR case, the shaft should have no end float, and no binding what so ever. :)

[blax1]

TR slider..............

[blax1]

Pretty straight forward, but get the file out and clean the flashing off the pitch mechanism.....SMOOOOTH can not be over emphasized ......... :)

When installing bearings one is drop in fit on the mould release side of the slider however the other side is press fit (like press with your fingers) this concept is for self centering bearings

The brass screw (8mm open ender) assembly screws into pitch yoke, the hole is tapered, so push it all the way in, then start the self threading technique, stop when the slider assembly starts to bind, then back it off with 1/4-1/2 a turn.

[blax1]

Like all plastic threads-pre-thread first with another screw, makes life a lot easier. :)

[blax1]

Install TR pitch links make sure orientation is correct.

[blax1]

Ball secured............... :cool:

[blax1]

Assembling tail hub.

Using my greaser to fill bearings.....Ace tool .......... :cool:

[blax1]

Sorting out grips and hardware

[blax1]

Pre-screwing threads again............. :D

[blax1]

TR hub assembled

[blax1]

Lining up bearings in grip holder.

[blax1]

Tightening grip holder evenly, dont over do it, keep pressure applied to grips as they close up.

[blax1]

Opposite side. :D

[blax1]

Create thread for ball screw first.

[blax1]

Then screw in ball using blue loctite.

[blax1]

Tail rotor hub completed all as smooth as................. :cool:

[blax1]

Tail bellcrank assembly

Pre-threading ball screw hole.

[blax1]

Ball screw attached.

[blax1]

Installing bell crank bearings and spacer.

[blax1]

Use a screw to line them all up and then squeeze together hard so the spacer stays in the correct location for assembly.

[blax1]

Installing tail box on the boom

[blax1]

PBR rubber grease to get the TT up the boom smooth and easy. :cool:

[blax1]

Tail box at home................ :cool: :cool: :cool:

[blax1]

Bell crank holder in place and snap lock onto TR slider ball this assembly must be smooth with NO binding during full travel in each direction.

[blax1]

TR grip hub on board, make sure you find the recess on the shaft that the grub screw lock into and use blue loctite.

[blax1]

Vertical stabilizer and bell crank ready for work.......................... :)

[blax1]

OK had a break from that, time to sort out throttle linkage....... :cool:

Need some advice here....please

[blax1]

I dont have a servo horn that will give me 90 degree's off the servo, I've had to go L20 in sub-trim to get it there......Is this a problem long term? Should I get the more horns to try OR just live with this..... :confused:

[blax1]

At 90 degree's after being sub trimmed.

[blax1]

The end result ....looks fine to me...

Any help appreciated as usual.. :)

[blax1]

Gyro time DS760

I really would like to end up with a very clean looking heli- with regards to wiring, I've purchased 1/8,1/4/and 1/2 expandable mesh and shrink wrap to try and achieve this...

So this is a fiddly job... after a while I get my expandable mesh on the gyro...looks great...

BUT then I realize mistake.. :(

[blax1]

I left out my additional satellite antenna wiring loom, So I pull it apart and start again..lol :rolleyes:

[blax1]

I remove the anti rotation bracket because I want the wiring on the inside of the frame.

[blax1]

Hole ain't big enough...soon sorted that.. ;)

[blax1]

Jobs done................. :D

[blax1]

The easiest way to get the wiring in, is remove the top bearing block, which I did, I really didn't want to remove the horizontal elevator shaft, lotsa work that one...but I did remove the top bearing block and this really opens her up and it was very easy to get all the wiring tucked away !!!!.. :)

[blax1]

My sat/ant.... not really happy but it'll do for the time being, I'm thinking mount it horizontally on the boom tube mount......I'll sort that out later, at least she's glued down and outta harms way ATM..

[blax1]

Bearing block back in place, very happy so far.. :) :)

[Dan]

Very cool, very neat, and really puts my black magic marker trick to shame.

[cbflys]

The end result ....looks fine to me...

Any help appreciated as usual.. :)

Ralph, The pushrod should be 90 degrees to the servo arm. You have the servo arm setup 90 degress to the servo case. Re-center your sub-trim and find a splne that gets the arm as close to 90 degrees to the pushrod as you can get. You'll also have to adjust the arm on the carb to have it 90 degrees to the pushrod when the carb is half open.

[heli-cuzz]

Looking good, ralph. :cool:

[mkoutnik]

Looks really nice Ralph! I really like the tidy wiring - very clean looking.

Did you seal the edges of the carbon fiber frames with CA? Doing so will help minimize them from cracking and splintering...Issue #33 has a quick tip describing this.

[blax1]

Did you seal the edges of the carbon fiber frames with CA? Doing so will help minimize them from cracking and splintering...Issue #33 has a quick tip describing this.

Thanks, I haven't done the CA trick yet, I was a bit concerned about making a mess of it and getting on the gloss CF....BUT I will re-visit this idea and do some test runs underneath the frame out of sight and see how it turns out, then do the rest once I perfect a technique.............. :)
Ralph, The pushrod should be 90 degrees to the servo arm. You have the servo arm setup 90 degress to the servo case. Re-center your sub-trim and find a splne that gets the arm as close to 90 degrees to the pushrod as you can get. You'll also have to adjust the arm on the carb to have it 90 degrees to the pushrod when the carb is half open.

Yes Chuck, you are perfectly correct, sometimes I never cease to amaze myself at how dumb I can be, thank you for pointing that out I will check it out and re-adjust...... :o

Bag 15

I've decided to reinforce the boom strut ends with a brass external sleeve as well....
Which I got from my LHS

[blax1]

Measure off 4 x 50mm sections of brass tube and cut with mini tube cutter.

[blax1]

I wicked the ends of carbon fibre struts with thin CA to try and stop potential splitting.

[blax1]

I slide the brass tube sections on to the struts and tape them in the middle, so I wouldn't forget them. :o

[blax1]

Blow out and clean inside carbon strut...amazing the crap that was in there, just helps epoxy do it's job.

[blax1]

Ready to epoxy up. :cool:

[blax1]

Jobs done, and masking tape applied to strut mounts ends to stop them from hydraulicing out.

[blax1]

Left to cure off, 24hours............ :)

[blax1]

In the Finless video, Bob shows how to pin these strut ends in so they never come out, as has apparently happens to some guys.. :(

So I thought I may as well have a go, in my first photo, last post I added some roll pins, however these proved to be to big, not much point doing this and actually drilling the insert plastic strut mount in half..

Ended up using 1.6mm nail brads, not the roll pins.

[blax1]

1.5mm bit in drill press rag around strut to protect it.

[blax1]

Nailing brad through strut, being mindful to support the strut from underneath, don't want to crack it................... :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[blax1]

Trim off excess

[blax1]

Bench grind flush, dont go to close. ;)

[blax1]

Use thick CA then slide brass sleeve into position.

[blax1]

I got the Brasso out this morning and polished all the brass fittings up on both boom struts and the TR linkages as well...

[blax1]

Looks a treat IMHO .... VERY HAPPY.... :) :)

Did the same with the TR linkage as well................ :cool:

[kcgraves]

Looks great Ralph.

[vermonster]

Looks great Ralph.

Ditto......

[schluterdude]

sharp. pinash makes or breaks a project!

[Dan]

Rock and I were talking and I said that’s a lot of work just to make Ralph’s helicopter better looking than our helicopter. Rock said “don’t worry about it that brass will really clash with the sliver tail, swash and head.” I told him not to be so sure and we haven’t seen the head yet, that could still be out being gold plated.

[mkoutnik]

Thanks, I haven't done the CA trick yet, I was a bit concerned about making a mess of it and getting on the gloss CF....BUT I will re-visit this idea and do some test runs underneath the frame out of sight and see how it turns out, then do the rest once I perfect a technique.............. :)

Easy technique...saturate a Q-tip with CA and then run it alond the frame edges. No drips, no mess, and very quick!

[blax1]

Easy technique...saturate a Q-tip with CA and then run it along the frame edges. No drips, no mess, and very quick!
Hi ---- :)

I dug out the article in the mag- and had a read then I used this technique on my T-Rex that I have been modifying (pic's later)

Easy Peasy......... :cool: NO mess worked a treat...

Thanks :)

[blax1]

Kind of stalled on my build due to lack of muffler/pipe. :(

My LHS has been trying to get me a Hatori SB18, BUT they've been on back order, some hassle with the importer.

So in the mean time I ordered one of these from GrandRC,

http://www.grandrc.com/inc/sdetail/184289

Anyone have any experience with this pipe, apparently its a Hatori-Chinese knock off.. Certainly looks OK, time will tell I guess....

Any thoughts. ideas etc? :)

[Ots]

I think you could put any 90 size muffler on it and it would still rock.

[blax1]

I think you could put any 90 size muffler on it and it would still rock.
Some of the boy's here reckon they sound TINNY....?? I can live with that... :)

[Ots]

I suspect that the "tinny" sound will be overpowered by the sound of the OS 90. Either way I could live with it too.

[blax1]

OK on with bag 16 the head assembly

Hang on for the ride this is a big packet.............. :rolleyes:

[blax1]

Some components in this bag. :rolleyes:

[blax1]

Screws, shims, bearings, pins etc

All laid out in some logical order, and bolts, screws all washed in metho- :cool:

[blax1]

Cleaning out sea-saw screw holes.

[blax1]

Red loctite sea-saw screws and snug, snug, tighten, tighten,
(were have I heard that) ................ ;)

[blax1]

Sea-saw in place, double check orientation this must go the right way around!! :o

[blax1]

OK this head is being set up for ACTIVE so from here on in attention needs to be made on various locations of some components.

[blax1]

Red loctite double balls in place and they are located at FB2 to create the fly bar cage ratio setting. :)

[blax1]

Round file inside head damper area and run some bolts through the head button threads to remove any metal left behind from the tapping process

[blax1]

Clean out with some metho...

[blax1]

I used both the needle pliers and soap method to get the surgical tube damper in place on the feathering shaft, worked at treat, be careful not to scratch the shaft with the pliers. :cool:

[blax1]

Tube in place and centred.

[blax1]

Again clean out thread holes..... :rolleyes:

[blax1]

Hard and soft damper O'rings, hard go inside first then the softer one's on the outer.

[blax1]

Slide one side on, use soap again, then the 1mm washer and slide cir-clip in place with the sharp side facing out, these are stamped in manufacture, one side smooth one side sharp edged, which locks against the shaft groove.

[blax1]

Insert into head using the soapy water. :)

[blax1]

Place the other damper on the other side plus the clip and slide down as far as you can get it, then get the brass sleeve supplied in the bag and slide over shaft, get a washer and screw and tighten down on this until the cir-clip snaps into the groove, if you cant hold it get another screw on the other side and use a Allen key to hold it, all this takes some force but works well, just make sure the cir-clip is shape side out. :cool:

[blax1]

Brass tube removed. :cool:


Jobs done........ :) :) :)

[blax1]

Assembling blade grips

Drop spacer shims into blade grips, make sure its flat in there.

[blax1]

Pack bearings with grease.

[blax1]

Organize bearings in their proper order large diameter bearing cup first, then the race and then the tight outer cup, put them on a screw driver in the correct sequence and drop into grip on top of the shim. :)

[blax1]

Bearings in place and seated properly.

[blax1]

Blue loctite, being careful as usual not get it into the bearings.