T-rex 600CF

[WiscHeli]

building a T-rex 600CF i see alot of Plastic parts were on my 450 is metal ,,, I plan to upgrade the plastic in time but ..... :confused:

What would be the Right now should be metal upgrades for the 600 before I put it in the air in spring ???

[cbflys]

building a T-rex 600CF i see alot of Plastic parts were on my 450 is metal ,,, I plan to upgrade the plastic in time but ..... :confused:

What would be the Right now should be metal upgrades for the 600 before I put it in the air in spring ???

Nothing is needed. It flys fine stock. But if you've got to upgrade, I'd recommend the blade grips first, then the washout/mixing arms.

[WiscHeli]

I am not upgradeing just to upgrade .. i was not sure if any plastic was a real good idea to change right away is all...

[AaronS]

I have been flying our original review model for over a year and it is still going strong with the original plastic parts. I would agree with cbflys, The first thing you probably want to do is the blade grips.The model works just fine in its stock form. If you are a really good flyer, demand the best performance, and won't be dragging the tail on the ground, I would also recommend the torque tube upgrade. The gears are delicate, however, so be cautious. You won't notice the better tail setup unless you fly demanding piro maneuvers.

[mrthomasfritz@yahoo.com]

building a T-rex 600CF i see alot of Plastic parts were on my 450 is metal ,,, I plan to upgrade the plastic in time but ..... :confused:

What would be the Right now should be metal upgrades for the 600 before I put it in the air in spring ???

Don't replace good parts for "upgrades". It really is as simple as that.

When it brakes, think about the bling. It is is not broken, don't fix it.

Ask yourself "did that plastic part stink" or can I save the money for a nice Raptor 90?

[RotorDoc]

Got to agree here - why upgrade if the stock part does what you want without execessive wear. In fact in some cases a well molded and designed GRP (glass reinforced plastic) can be a better choice then a machined aluminum piece - specially if the wrong type of aluminum is used, or if the maching is off a bit (lower quality control).

My first entry into electric of consequence (I do not consider the Trex or Dragonous that I have, in the same class) was with the Century Swift 16. After seeing some videos on the net, I thought I should try an inexpensive "plastic fantastic" electric heli. Specially since it was of a more useful size, using blades from 515mm to 530mm. After over 230 flights on mild a 4 cell power systems (about 40) to a more demanding 5 cell system (about another 60) to then to a high output 6 cell system, I must say that I was impressed with its' performance and the reliability of all its' GRP parts. It is still in stock form except for the blades - early on I installed the Rotor Tech 515's.

So, when I saw the Swift 550 C/F review in RCHeli I had to give it a try. What I liked about it was that it had some CNC items where I thought it worthy e.g. the CNC metal head block and the CNC motor mount (better then GRP as a heat sink). The carbon fiber frame with the CNC bearing blocks etc. make it more capable of handling the high power 6 cell system and the longer (550/560mm blades) with less frame flex in hard maneuvers. But it still had GRP in areas that I already knew where more then adequate.

I had a few minor issues fitting the lower frame plate (had to elongate two of the bolt holes in the C/F sideframe plates) and fitting one of the thrust bearings that had a slightly too large OD thrust plate. But overall a very easy build. (I've had more issues with my T-Rex's).

Man, with 6 cells and 560mm blades this is a hot rod and it autos like a big bird. It has a much better power to weight ratio then the same 6 cells on my buds T600.

As most of my flying has been in larger 90's with torque tube drives, I have grown to love their efficiency. So I would also like to see these Swifts offered with a torque tube drive.